Two tracks cross the low hills between Loch Awe and Loch Fyne. One starts near Kilneuair, 2 km east of Ford, at the west end of Loch Awe and crosses to Carron and thence to Auchindrain 3 km north of Furnace. The second track starts at Durran, 11 km northeast of Ford, and also crosses to Auchindrain.

Today, as through routes, these tracks are used only by the occasional walker but this was not always the case. During the eighteenth and first half of the nineteenth centuries they are thought to have been much used for droving cattle from Lorn and Mull on their long trek to the markets of Stirlingshire. Around this time they were used also to transport charcoal by pack-ponies to the furnace at Goatfield.

The first route is shown on Roy’s map of c.1755 and both, as third-class roads, on the Ordnance Survey map of 1897. For modern day users OS Landranger Sheet 55 shows both routes as tracks or footpaths. Apart from those sections which are maintained as forestry access roads the tracks are in many places badly scoured or boggy, so stout waterproof footwear is essential.

Kilneuair – Auchindrain 17.7 km (11 miles)
The start of this track from the B840 is indicated by a Scottish Rights of Way Society (SRWS) signpost ‘Public Footpath to Lochfyneside. 12 miles’. The rough track climbs steeply for 100 m, passes the ruinous chapel of Kilneuair and at 200 m a stile gives access to the unplanted hill ground ahead.

At 1 km the track crosses a recently made farm road which links Fincharn with Glasvaar and Ederline farms. Before climbing up to this road the valley bottom is very wet and a small detour is needed to keep on drier ground.

Having crossed the farm road the track passes a cattle-feeding area then steadily winds its way uphill. Looking back there are good views of Loch Awe with the tiny settlements of Torran, Inverliever (with its many nursery tunnels), Arichamish and the white house of Kilmaha perched high above the loch on its north side.

At 3.5 km the track reaches the Bealach Ruadh and a height of 300 m. Glancing behind there are splendid views to the west across the Sound of Jura to the Paps of Jura and northeast the twin peaks of Ben Cruachan can be glimpsed.

From Bealach Ruadh the track descends to Loch Tunnaig (Loch of ducks) and the much larger Loch Gaineamhach (Sandy loch). Hereabouts, in hollows among the heathery and rather rocky hills, there are some eighteen fishing lochs and reasonably priced permits can be had from Eddie McLean, Head Keeper, Ederline Estate, Ford.

In summer the most likely ducks to be seen on these lochs are mallard and teal. On a few of the many lochs between Loch Awe and Loch Fyne tiny artificial floating islands have been anchored to encourage divers to nest.

Having skirted the north end of Sandy Loch the track climbs steeply to the Bealach Gaoithe and the highest point on the walk at 365 m. Again the best views are behind with the low hills beyond the Loch Awe trench and, to the west, the north end of Jura, Scarba, a tiny part of Colonsay, the Garvellachs and, across the Firth of Lorn, the hills of Mull.

Soon the track starts a slow descent to the upper Add Valley with Loch a’ Chaorainn down below to the left. Now the best views are ahead to the low hills of south Cowal and across Loch Glashan (a small hydro-electric storage reservoir) to outer Loch Fyne and the Arran hills.

The one-time shepherd’s house of Carron, on the north side of the River Add, has been renovated and is now managed by the Mountain Bothy Association, The presence of this house, and another ruin 0.5 km to the northeast, is indicative of the more fertile nature of this broad grassy valley. Between these buildings the track crosses the Add by an attractive stone-arch bridge where Brittle Bladder-fern grows in abundance on mortared joints under the arch.

At the ruin the track is gated and there is now a conifer plantation all the way to Brenachoille 7 km ahead. At first the track is either badly scoured or wet and soft but eventually becomes a well-maintained gravel forest road. The plantations are mostly of Sitka Spruce with some Lodgepole Pine and Larch. The lighter patches of the latter add some cheer to the dark and sombre spruce and pine. Here there are good numbers of Red and Roe deer which are most likely to be seen early or late in the day.

Approaching the fertile farmland at Brenachoille there are good views of the hills above the head of Loch Fyne including Beinn Bhuidhe and to the right Dun Leacann above Furnace. At Brenachoille the gravel road becomes the minor tarmac public road which joins the main A83 from Lochgilphead to Inveraray at Auchindrain with its farming township museum. At this junction SRWS also have a sign for the benefit of those walking in the opposite direction: ‘Public Footpath to Lochaweside. Durran 6 and Kilneuair 11 miles’.

Durran – Auchindrain 11.4 km (7 miles)
This track starts from the B840 at Durran, 1.5 km southwest of Eredine. There is a SRWS signpost ‘Public Footpath to Lochfyneside’. The track passes the five former forestry houses and after 0.5 km enters the conifer plantations and soon after links to the well-maintained forest road which runs above the deep valley of the Abhainn Bhealaich on its east side.

For a short distance this road runs above an unplanted but ungrazed field so there are good views back to Loch Awe which hereabouts is well afforested on both sides.

The well-engineered road meanders its way upwards to maintain a reasonable gradient and to cross the frequent streams where most practical. Much of the forest is still unfelled so distant views are few. After 2.7 km a forest ranger’s All Terrain Vehicle track goes off to the left, at 5.0 km disused gravel pits are passed and soon after, at 5.7 km a wooden finger post on the right reads ‘Auchindrain’. 2.5 km to the northeast of this junction, on the exposed and elevated ridge of An Suidhe (514 m), proposals are afoot to erect forty windmill generators.

From the road a path, very soft in places, continues through the spruce plantations. A footbridge spans the Allt nan Sac which would otherwise by a problem when in spate. Approaching the highest point, 358 m, there are several old cairns confirming the route is of some antiquity. Looking back from here, on a clear day, the distant hills of Mull can be seen.

Continuing towards Auchindrain the hills have not been planted because of the exposure and poor soils., Here there is much Heather and Purple Moor-grass, both of which are major fire hazards in spring before new growth appears. Ahead, across the Loch Fyne trench, Beinn Bheula (between Loch Eck and Loch Goil) can now be seen – one of the higher of the Cowal hills.

The path now begins its descent to Loch Leacann with Loch an Fhidleir and Loch Airigh na Creige below to the right. Fishing permits for these, and other lochs nearby, can be had from Argyll Estates Office, Cherry Park, Inveraray.

Shortly after passing the east end of Loch Leacann the track fords the outflow which could be a problem in very wet weather. Beyond the ford it climbs steeply to a vantage point with superb views. To the north-east the rocky Beinn Dearg escarpment runs alongside the conifer plantations while in a more easterly direction are the higher hills above glen Kinglas and the Rest and be Thankful.

A very steep descent through mature conifer plantations takes one to the gate at the minor public road from Brenachoille to Auchindrain. To reach the A83 at the latter place turn left.

For those walking from Auchindrain to Durran remember to turn right immediately after crossing the bridge over the Leacann Water – at the gate mentioned above. There is no signpost here.

References
Haldane, ARB The Drove Roads of Scotland, 1995 (reprinted)
Moir, DG Scottish Hill Tracks. Southern Scotland,1975 (revised)
Roy, William, General Survey of Scotland, 1747–55, MS (British Museum)